A Brief HistoryTallinn is a city that first gained a significant size in the 11th century; in the 13th century it was conquered by Danish forces and put under their domain. They sold it to the Teutonic Knights* along with other lands in the 1300’s. In 1561 it was conquered by the Swedish Crown and put under its administration, along with Finland, for centuries to come. The most recent and significant occupations were those by the Russians. Imperial Russia gained control of Estonia and Finland in the Northern War against Sweden(1710) during the Napoleonic Era. They gained their independence in 1918 during the Bolshevik uprising and maintained it until the German Occupation from 1941 to 1944 and the subsequent Soviet governance. Tallinn was heavily damaged by Soviet bombing March of 1944; some of the scars of this are still visible in the city. The Estonians regained independence in 1991 from the USSR.
While being the largest city in Estonia, Tallinn is of fairly small size when it comes to land area. The growth was heavily restricted by both Imperial Russia favoring it being a military stronghold and the Soviets heavily favoring industry over residential development. The suburbs are growing at a good rate; however, they aren’t what I got to see or have great interest in. Tallinn’s old town is primarily contained within the old fortress walls, with the majority of them still there and in quite good condition. The old town has even been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site and in my mind, rightly so.
The Architecture and City FeelTallinn really shows a mixture of Russian, Finnish, and Swedish influence in its buildings. While they are not nearly as pompous in their buildings as the Swedes or as utilitarian as the average Finnish structure, they often resemble them in the basic ideas of the buildings and windows. If I’m not mistaken, the person who designed the center of Helsinki also designed parts of Tallinn’s old town. The Russian influence is most evident in their governmental buildings and churches; onions and bulbous spires are frequent in the city. The often straight line and practical approach of the non-orthodox churches gives the strong impression of Finnish and Swedish designs. Overall, the city looks like a Russified version of Helsinki, though more compact and containing all of its older buildings in a relatively small area.
CultureNow I can’t really speak much of Estonian culture, I was only there for around 36 hours. By the knick-knacks they sell, much of the traditional things are much like what an American would think the Russians are like, though more Pagan, for the lack of a better word. The Robes, the herbs, and archers practicing their skills within the castle wall all give the feeling of being less steeped in Christian tradition and having held onto the Pagan ones a bit stronger. Now I wouldn’t be horribly surprised if the Pagan traditions were still more prominent in the Baltics, as they are in some respects in the Scandinavian countries and the Christianization of the land came later than most of Europe.
As an anecdote though, I did meet quite an interesting man. He was a member of the Estonian military(military service is mandatory for all males for either 9 or 11 months, giving you the rank of private or corporal, respectively) who had served in Afghanistan with, I believe, the 2nd US Marine Battalion. He seemed to have been invigorated by his experience there and was going on another tour in 5 months; he was also hoping to join the US Marines and get a Green card and eventually move to NYC (unsurprising choice, but it really does have a bit of everything). I just found it to be another one of those chance encounters to meet and Estonian who had served with the US Marines in Afghanistan; I can’t imagine there are actually that many of them. With him was a Russian-Estonian** who was still in his studies; he said he was training to become a medic and would go on tour when his schooling was complete.
Food & CuisinePossibly the most pleasant surprise in Tallinn was the prevalence of world cuisine that was well done. There were, of course, Estonian restaurants but there were also Russian, German, Indian, Chinese, Thai, African, Polish, and Italian restaurants (their may have been others I did not notice or go by). Now I’m aware this is somewhat common in larger cities, especially in the United States but to find such a thing in Baltic States in city of only 600,000 was quite surprising. Belgrade and Sofia were significantly larger cities but I found no such restaurants and had a much harder time getting by. For my fellow vegans and vegetarians out there, I can whole-heartedly recommend these two restaurants:
Elevant – An eclectic Indian restaurant, with a variety of dishes. There were quite a few curries on the menu as well as Masalas. It was a bit on the pricier side but the serving was very large and the food was excellent. Price range €8-10 per meal, with only water(they charge you for it, apparently).
African Kitchen (Uus 32/34, Tallinn 10111 Estonia) – A restaurant that seems to draw its inspirations from a variety of African cuisines, though it did seem to lack in Ethiopian food (I can’t imagine Teff is easy to find in Estonia though, I couldn’t find it in Sweden either). I had Ebe, which was potatoes and black eyed peas in a tomato coconut sauce, quite tasty. There are 7 or 8 vegetarian meals, half of which are fully vegan(the others have whipped cream in the sauce). The waitress at this restaurant even asked me if I was a vegan when I asked about butter in the dish! I’ve never actually gotten that before, there must be fair number of vegans frequenting Tallinn apparently :). Meals are around €5-7, with drinks often being €2-3. First good Rosé wine I’ve had in Europe since Bulgaria as well.
* – The Teutonic influence and the forced Christianization of Europe still has a few relics there; occasionally I saw Teutonic figurines and their influence in the Catholic churches. It’s an absolutely fascinating history.
** – Russians are a very large minority in Estonia; around a quarter of the population is ethnically Russian and an even larger amount can still speak and understand it, especially those old enough to have been present for the Soviet years.